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How do I Find a
Photographer? Every model needs a portfolio and
composite cards. These are the basic marketing tools of the model, just like a
resume would be to any other job seeker. At a minimum, a model should have a
good clean head shot, and one good, simple full-length shot (in something that
will show off the shape of the model -- a fitted dress, a leotard, swim wear,
lingerie, etc). If you are already with a reputable agency, they will likely
have a list of competent photographers who you can choose from. Also, other
models might be able to give you suggestions on the photographers that they have
preferred to work with. Unless you are posing for the photographer's work in
exchange for free portfolio prints, you'll also have to consider a budget. For a
head shot and full length shot, figure anywhere from $50 - $500 for the session
and an 8x10" print of each. If you are getting many more looks (for a composite
card), expect to pay anywhere from $250 - $1500 for session and prints.
Before having photos done, it's best to talk with your agency to find out
what their suggestions are. Again, they can't force you to have certain types of
photos taken, but if they are a legitimate agency, they will want to give you
advice on how to make you most marketable (again, the more money you can make,
the more money they can make). Some agencies have very specific suggestions such
as number of shots taken in studio and number taken on location, where locations
shots are to be taken and what type of backgrounds, what type of studio
background and what type of colors, print sizes, pose length (close head shot,
medium length to waist, 3/4 length to hips, full length), film, and even
lighting. It's best to discuss these requirements well in advance so that you
can let the photographer know (and have time to play) the shot you need. For
your portfolio work, you should plan on paying for a stylist/make-up artist. You
need to look you very best, and paying for a stylist is like getting a free
course in "how to make YOU look beautiful." Again, your agency or photographer
should be able to recommend a competent professional in an affordable price
range. Remember that as a model, you are responsible for your own decisions
and conduct. You need to let photographers know if you feel that their conduct
or requests are unprofessional (or making you feel uncomfortable). If the
behavior continues, you have the right AND responsibility to leave a photo
session immediately.
How
Should I Prepare for a Photo Session? Modeling
is perhaps the most difficult of professions, because you are judged on both
your performance AND your looks. There are many simple things you can do which
will help you appear professional and successful (and therefore leading to more
jobs and requests). Weight is ALWAYS an issue with models. While you should
not be anorexic, you need to maintain desired weight levels and exercise on a
daily basis to keep muscles toned. Along with exercise goes proper healthy
eating habits. This includes lots of fruits and vegetables as well as laying off
the fats and snacks. Also avoid caffeine, smoking, alcohol, and other substances
which will deplete your energy and health. Don't change your looks before a
job! Avoid last minute perms, colorings, or haircuts unless you are specifically
instructed to do so. Longer hair is almost always preferred on models because it
is more versatile (you can make long hair look short, but you can't make short
hair look long). Avoid wearing make-up except for actual jobs and
interviews. Make-up of any kind blocks up pores in the skin leading to unhealthy
skin (and sometimes acne and pimples). Bath a couple times a day and use
appropriate skin care products to keep your skin as healthy as possible.
Avoid the sun! Getting sunburned is not only bad for your career but it's
also unhealthy. Also, tan lines are nearly impossible to cover up with make-up.
It's much easier to get a pale looking model to look tan than it is to get a tan
looking model to look pale. If feel the need to look "tan," use high quality
self-tanning products which "color" your skin rather than tan it. The key is to
apply it evenly (often you need help with this) and you need to stand around
nude until the product is completely dry. All models need professional
manicures and pedicures to keep their nails in great shape. Be CAREFUL! Bruises,
scars, scratches (and worse yet, tattoos and piercing) wreck your product (your
body). Always remember that you body is your "product" and keep it in as
pristine shape as possible. Women (and men depending on the project) should
shave or wax unwanted body hair a day before the job. This will give enough time
to allow any red marks to fade. When shaving, always shave in the same direction
that the hair is laying down. If you shave "against the grain" you'll end up
cutting the hair off below the surface of the skins, and you'll have "razor
burn" as the ingrown hair tries to force a new hole through the skin for itself.
Always arrive at each job freshly bathed and showered. Hair should not only
be shampooed but also conditioned to give it more body and "height.". Bring your
own curling irons, hair spray, combs, berets, brushes, etc. that you'll need for
your hair. For most clothing shots, the model should expect to pose without
underwear on. Because underwear shows up or creates lines or bumps in the
fashions being worn, typically the model will wear ONLY the clothes provided. If
you will be posing in revealing clothing such as lingerie, swim wear, or nude,
come to the photo session wearing loose fitting clothing and no socks or
underwear. Anything that presses on the body creates reddish "pressure marks"
which take up to an hour to go away. If you have a shoot like this, do not wear
any tight clothing or clothing with elastic in it for roughly 12 hours before
the shoot. If you are "Testing" or doing "Portfolio" work... Practice
walking, posing, and depicting different facial expressions/moods on a regular
basis. Pick out clothing ahead of time which will give you a variety of looks
and which flatter your figure. Avoid distracting patterns which lead the
viewer's eye away from you. All black or all white outfits are always good
choices. Similarly, clothing with simple and classic "lines" also are
beneficial. It's best to bring a much wider selection of clothes than what you
will need so that the photographers and have choices to pick out what they feel
will work best.
What Do I Need
to Know About Makeup?
You should learn as much
as you can about makeup and makeup products. Makeup is designed to enhance
positive features, minimize negative features, and draw attention to specific
features. On many shoots, there will be no make-up artist, and you will be
responsible for applying your own make-up. Even on shoots where there is a
make-up artist, you may need to supply your own make-up, and you should learn
the best colors and products for your particular skin type. One important
lesson you will find is that you "get what you pay for" when it comes to
make-up. For photo shoots, you will not want to use any "street brand" type of
make-up, but rather you will want to use professional "stage and screen" or
"photography" make-up products. These cosmetics are much thicker than
traditional make-up so that in one application they will smooth out the skin and
fill in the pores. Often these are referred to as "grease paints" because that
is what they were called in theater usage. It is in your very best interest
to spend some money on a professional consultation from a make-up artist who
does stage and screen work (the persons at most retail cosmetic counters have
little training and often give advice which is damaging rather than helpful).
One of the keys you will learn is to use "light colored" base/foundation. It
looks very odd in photos when the face is several shades darker than the rest of
the model's skin. Also, make-up has to be blended so that there are no "seams"
or "ledges" where the make-up abruptly stops. Many times (for lingerie, swim
wear, and nude photos) the entire body is covered with make-up. This is very
time consuming and must be done carefully so as to appear natural. Another
lesson you will quickly learn is about "contouring" or sculpting. On a flat
photograph, you can "trick" the viewer by being clever in makeup application.
Our eyes think that areas which are "lighter/brighter" are closer to us, and
areas which are "darker/dimmer" are farther away. What contouring does is to use
darker make-up on areas which you want to appear smaller (or farther away) and
to use lighter make-up on areas that you want to appear larger (or closer). If a
nose is too broad, you use a lighter color running right down the bridge of the
nose, and use darker shades on both sides. In a photograph, this makes the nose
appear "slimmer" than it naturally would. If you don't have good cheekbones, you
can literally "draw them on" with make-up. Again, a light color is placed on the
cheek where the top of the cheekbone would be, and a darker color is placed down
the rest of the cheek. This makes the cheekbone "pop out" of the skin, even if
there is not cheekbone at all! One thing to be cautious of is the types of
make-up you use. Since photographic film picks up ultraviolet light as well as
visible light, your make-up may appear completely different colors once
photographed. Most professional stage and screen make-up is formulated so that
"what you see is what you get." The more you learn about make-up the better.
Make-up is the one area of your appearance which is easy and inexpensive to
change, and still highly effective when done correctly. Purchase several books
on professional make-up techniques as well as request catalogs from a variety of
suppliers of professional stage and screen make-up.
How Do I Learn to Pose?
The
best way to learn to pose is to "just do it!" Get as much time in front of the
mirror and the camera as possible. Clip out magazine ads and put together a
"pose book" of 30-50 different poses. Practice these and find out which ones
work best for you. A professional model should be able to easily move between
many different poses which are especially effective for him/her. Another
good technique is to study your proofs and contact sheets from photo sessions.
Find out what types of poses make you look the best "on film." Yes, what shows
on film and what shows "in the mirror" of sometimes different. One key to posing
is to "break symmetry." Poses look more interesting if arms and legs are
"uneven" (or don't match left-to-right). A lot of times you'll see that a model
has his/her body "twisted." This is very effective at making the model look like
they are "in motion" because the photo looks like something has just caught
their attention and they are turning to see what is was. In the same way
that you should "break symmetry," you should also practice your balance and
condition your legs. Many times you'll need to hold a difficult pose which makes
you feel "off balance." While it may feel terribly uncomfortable, it looks GREAT
on film. Once you don't have to worry about losing your balance, you can have
more fun with the photos, and your smiles will be much more natural.
Finally, one of the areas that models always seem to neglect are facial
expressions. For any kind of commercial work, facial expressions (besides the
"smile" which everyone is used to doing) are a key to getting jobs and to being
effective in communicating emotions. Practice in the mirror for ten minutes
every day making funny faces. Really exercise your facial muscles. The more
conditioned those muscles are, the easier it will be for you to come up with
creative gestures and expressions. If you are careful in studying what works
well for you, and you've come up with a set of poses and facial expressions that
work great, photographers will love you. They will soon be passing the word
around to "hire her -- she never has a bad picture."
How Do I Know How to Pose?
There are two keys to posing. First is to "break symmetry." The second is
to keep "in the light." A person standing with arms at their sides looking right
into the camera looks posed and "boring." However, look through the fashion
magazines and not how the model's body is often twisted, with the hips pointing
a different direction than the chest, and the face may be pointing yet an
entirely different direction. Also look at the hands and feet. Notice how one
hand is higher than the other and that the feet are often pointed different
directions or standing on different "levels?" It is this "broken symmetry"
which makes photos look interesting and dynamic. It looks like the model is
actually moving and doing something even though they may be perfectly still in
the pose. The other main rule is to "find your light." The photographer will
normally have one light which is far brighter than the others. For the most part
-- you want to point your chest and face toward that light -- so that the
important parts of your body are lit well. Of course the photographer may tell
you to point your body different ways -- but this is to emphasize different
parts of the body. However if the photographer isn't giving you much for
directions -- try to keep pointed "toward the light." How you pose will
depend upon the way that the photographer likes to work. Some photographers
prefer models who "move to the music" and simply takes "snapshots" when he/she
sees something they like. Other photographer's will meticulously pose every
little detail -- down to what direction your fingernails are pointing. With the
first type of photographer -- the best thing is to "KEEP MOVING." With the
second type of photographer -- the best thing is to "NOT MOVE AT ALL." You will
have to learn to adapt to the style of the photographer you are working with --
and he/she may have to adapt to you somewhat as well. It's best to work with
some really good and experienced photographers when you are just starting out.
They will teach you some tricks and some methods which will help you look your
best -- even if you are working with more amateur photographers in the future.
If you start out working with amateur photographers who don't know what they are
doing (or how to instruct you how to pose to make you look good) then you are
just wasting your time. If on the other hand, you've learned some basic posing
techniques -- then your time spent with ANY photographer will be more
productive.
Any Other
Advice? Photographs can be your best allies in
finding jobs as a model. You should be willing to "bend over backwards" and
"work for free" on photographers pet projects whenever you can to get more
experience, better portfolio photos, and better working relationships. You want
to be every photographer's "favorite model" -- because you'll be the first one
called when the photographer is casting a part you're appropriate for. Many
models make the dreaded mistake of thinking after they've had a few paying jobs
that they should be paid every time they pose/model. This is the worst possible
attitude a model can have. It's like a store that opens up with lots of
advertising, and once it gets its first couple of customers -- figures it never
has to advertise again. When you're doing "tests" and working "on trade" with
photographers, you are building up your advertising, and you are doing
"marketing" to keep yourself in front of the eyes of not only the photographers
-- but all the clients of the photographer who might see your image. Many
times the client will ask the photographer to use "the same model as your
poster." They like your look. You don't even have to interview for the job! You
can't BUY better advertising than that! In the same way, you should bring
creative ideas to photographers for projects that you are interested in doing
for yourself. Some photographers love a "challenge" to do something wild and
new. The best of all worlds is when the two of you work together to come up with
a piece to be published to promote both your skills (like a postcard which both
of you can use in mailings, or a poster, or even a calendar). While most of the
time you'll both have to invest your money in the advertising, if the image is
good enough, it might even sell to a publisher -- netting the both of you a
small sum and great publicity for your efforts. No matter who you are or how
long you've modeled, you should always jump at the opportunity to "do another
job." If nothing else, it keeps you in practice. At the very best, the small and
low-budget jobs are the creative works that win you the national contracts.
Always work hard and never give
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